Salt cod is prepared in homes throughout the world. It is versatile fish that is packed with nutrients. Salt cod is preserved in salt and dried to remove hydration, which also preserves its nutrients. As found in the many recipes throughout Southern Europe, Salt Cod as a simple spread, is prepared similarly from county to country.
In the past several years, I have been preparing a Portuguese Salt Cod Spread as a dish for our Christmas Eve Feast of the Seven Fishes. Our annual celebration has grown beyond the confines of seven fishes and has crossed many a border. Our love of foods from other cultures, and our connection to Italy, France, Spain, and Portugal, bring an interesting twist to our menu. My recipe for Italian Baccala E Cozze alla Mari is an example that can be found by clicking on this link.
Below are two versions of Salt Cod, from Portugal and France, that have become favorites for holiday entertaining. The Portuguese version, also known as Bacalhau de Vovo is served cold or at room temperature, while the French version is baked and served warm.
I made both of these variations on the same day. Since both start with the same steps, it was like walking along a path and coming to a fork in the road. One road led to Portugal and the other to France. I opted for both.
The Similarities
Both recipes call for rehydrating the Salt Cod over a three day period with changes of water every 12 hours. In each recipe I use about 3/4 of a pound of rehydrated cod.
Once rehydrated, both recipes call for poaching the cod in a bath of 4 cups of hot milk for 10 to 15 minutes.
In both recipes, the cod is cooled, flaked, and then added to a mixing bowl.
The Road To Portugal
The Portuguese recipe follows the same steps of rehydrating and poaching in hot milk, however there are no potatoes in this recipe. The cod is emulsified with olive oil. Additionally, lemon juice, lemon zest, parsley, and olives are stirred into the emulsion. Once emulsified, it is chilled and served either cold or at room temperature with bread or crackers.
The Road to France
The French version, known as Brandade, calls for potatoes as part of the base.
Salt Cod Spread Recipes
Portuguese Salt Cod Spread
Ingredients:
- 12 oz salt cod filet (rehydrated over three days, changing water twice daily).
- 4 cups milk
- 1 shallot, chopped
- Juice of 1 lemon
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 2 T. Chopped parsely
- 8 pitted olives
- 1 tsp wine vinegar
- 1 cup olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
Salt Cod Preparation
01
Soak the salt cod in cold water, and refrigerate. Change the water twice daily for three full days. Drain the cod and keep refrigerated until ready to use.
02
Heat the milk in a sauce pan over medium heat. Be careful to not scald the milk. Once hot enough, turn off the burner and add the cod to the milk. Cover and allow to sit for 15 minutes.
03
Drain the cod and allow to cool. Once cool, break the filet into flakes and add to the bottom of a mixing bowl. Mix at low to medium speed to break up the cod.
04
Slowly add the olive oil, increasing the speed of the mixer, if needed, and mix to form an emulsion. Once emulsified, continue to mix at low speed.
05
Add in the shallots, olives, lemon juice, parsley, and zest. Continue to mix. Add the vinegar and mix for another minute or two. Tip: If using olives preserved in oil, add a little of the oil from the jar to the emulsion for extra flavor. Season with salt and pepper and mix thoroughly.
06
Add the mixture to a serving bowl, or a storage container until ready to serve. Place in the refrigerator if not using immediately. Garnish with olives and a dusting of parsley before serving.
Brandade
Ingredients
- 12 oz rehydrated salt cod
- 4 cups milk
- 1 T. Herbs de Provence
- 1/3 cup olive oil
- Reserved poaching liquid
- 6 Yukon Gold potato’s, peeled and quartered
- Two cloves garlic
- 1/2 tsp chili powder
- Nutmeg to taste
- 1 tsp lemon zest
- 1/3 cup sour cream or creme fraiche
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- Bread crumbs
- Butter
Salt Cod Preparation
01
Soak the salt cod in cold water, and refrigerate. Change the water twice daily for three full days. Drain the cod and keep refrigerated until ready to use.
02
Heat the milk and the Herbs de Provence in a sauce pan over medium heat. Be careful to not scald the milk. Once hot enough, turn off the burner and add the cod to the milk. Cover and allow to sit for 15 minutes.
03
In a separate sauce pan, cover 6 peeled Yukon gold potatoes with water and cook until fork tender, about 15-20 minutes. Note: Boil the two cloves of garlic along with the potatoes.
04
Remove the cod from the warm milk, break into small chunks, and add to the bottom of a mixing bowl. Drain the potatoes. Add the potatoes to the bottom of the mixing bowl with the cod.
05
Break up the potatoes with a potato masher before starting the mixer. On medium speed, begin to mix the potatoes and cod until they form the consistency of mashed potatoes.
06
Drizzle in the olive oil along with a bit of the poaching milk and continue to mix. Continue to add more of the poaching milk until you reach the desired consistency.
07
Once creamy, add in lemon zest, nutmeg, chili powder, salt, pepper and sour cream. Mix on medium speed until fully combined.
08
Heat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Transfer the mixture to a small baking dish or a few small baking dishes. Cover with a layer of bread crumbs and a few pats of butter and bake for 20-30 minutes. The top should form a crust and turn brown and bubbly when done (as shown above).
09
Remove from the oven and serve immediately with crackers or a baguette.
The creaminess of the mashed potatoes and the hint of nutmeg add a unique flavor to this spread. The slight bite of the chili power adds a nice surprise, taking this recipe to the next level. You can make a day or two ahead of serving and just reheat before serving.
